Beauty Survival

your guide through beauty bedlam

Our Beauty Experts Answer Beauty Questions

Skin Care

Casey from Marysville, WA asks:  At what age should I start using anti aging products and face washes.

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers:  I usually advise my clients to start using one anti-aging product at a time. A good age to begin is between 25-30. Start off with a great anti-aging serum. One of my favorites is made by Valmont. 

P.S. from Beauty Survival: Valmont products are available at FragranceNet.com.

Elizabeth from Skokie, IL asks: I am a little confused. Which  should I put on first - sun block cream or my moisturizer?  

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers:  Your routine should be to put on your moisturizer first and then your sun block.

Melissa from Redding, CT asks:  I need help finding a night time anti- wrinkle cream that does not leave a  residue. I can not stand the feeling of something on my face. I need to have that dry clean feeling. I have tried Mary Kay and Olay but they all leave a sticky feeling. I have sensitive skin which makes it hard to find things that will not make me break out. I am going on 31 and do not want to end up with a 
wrinkly face. 

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers:  Neova Dual Action Lotion with retinol and cooper peptide is great, and N.V. Perricone Evening Facial  Emollient is nice.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Neova Dual Action Lotion is available from DERMAdoctor.com and The SkinStore.com. N.V. Perricone Evening Facial Emollient is available from nvperriconemd.com.

Annika from State College, PA asks: I need to find a face-cleaning routine that works. I don't break out a lot, just consistently. I always have at least 2-5 pimples or red bumps, and they're nearly impossible to conceal. I've tried Clean and Clear and like pharmacy-bought products (didn't work), I've tried Proactiv (smells terrible), and now I'm using the Clinique 3-step system (still doesn't work). I sleep enough and I eat well, but I am always fairly stressed. I don't think I can get rid of that factor though! I'm at a loss for what to do ... I'm 26 and I'm sick of looking like a teenager!

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers: Since you've tried many great products (such as Proactive) your problem may be hormonal. Stress can trigger breakouts. Try putting some tea tree oil on the pimple at night. Also, if the pimple is red, sulfur is a great ingredient to calm down the redness (try Peter Thomas Roth's Sulfur Therapuetic Masque). Good Luck! 

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Peter Thomas Roth's Sulfur Therapuetic Masque is available at The SkinStore.com

Joyce from London, England asks:  I've got oily skin and its a concern to me lately. I've got blemishes on my forehead and a black spot on my chin. I would really like to know how to clear them up and the best products to use to be able to clear them completely.

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers: First, I would have a deep cleansing facial to get rid if the blackheads. When you have a good cleansing facial your skin will feel and look better. Also, use products that contain salycilic acid to keep your skin clean, such as Neutrogena or Murad. To keep the blemishes away use a 5% benzoyl peroxide spot treatment from Peter Thomas Roth. A great at home skin care regime for your skin would be the Pro Active line. This skin care line is fantastic for keeping your face flawless. Good Luck!

P.S. from Beauty Survival: Peter Thomas Roth 5% benzoyl peroxide spot treatment is available at Beauty.com, Neutrogena is available at drugstore.com, Murad is available at Sephora.com, and Pro Active is available at Proactive.com.

Catherine from San Luis Obispo, CA asks:  I don't wear makeup, so for a while I was lazy and didn't wash my face. I had perfectly clear, soft, smooth skin and always received compliments on my wonderful complexion. After a while, I thought I should probably wash my face just because that's what normal people do. I have been a face washer now for about a year, and there is a noticeable difference in my complexion - I have tons of small blemishes. I still don't wear makeup, and I only wear lotion on my face sometimes. Why would I break out now that I DO wash my face?

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers:  You may be using the wrong cleanser.  It may be too drying and is causing your sebaceous glands to over produce oil or it is too emollient and is clogging your pores.  The best thing to do is to get your skin analyzed by a skin professional and to have her recommend a good cleanser suited for her skin type.  Stay away from gel cleansers if your skin is dry and stay away from milky cleansers if your skin is oily.  Dove Essential Nutrients is a nice line of cleansers.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Dove Essential Nutrients cleansers are available at drugstore.com.

Sonya from Ottawa, Canada asks:  I'm 36 years old, and have been having a lot of trouble finding the right moisturizer lately. I suppose my skin is combination, as my cheeks get little dry patches the size of quarters (1 on each cheek), and my chin also gets dry. When I moisturize, I have to re-apply to those areas before I put on my foundation. Which products/brands would you recommend? I also think that my skin my be a little sensitive to products.

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers: If you are looking for a store brand, the Dove line is great.  Pick the one for sensitive skin.  This will hydrate your skin without leaving it greasy.  They also make great cleansers. If you are looking for a department store brand try the vitamin enriched face base by Bobbi Brown.  It will help hydrate your skin and allow for smoother make up application.  You can also try La Mer.  It is pricey but when my clients come in for facials and say they use it, their skin usually is very nice! You may also want to try getting a professional facial so the facialist can tell you about your skin and maybe recommend products for you that you can only get in a spa.  The benefit is the education that comes a long with it.  Try to find someone reputable in your area!

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Dove products are available at drugstore.com. Bobbi Brown at CosmeticMall.com and Le Mer products are available at cremedelamer.com.

Alison from Singapore asks:  Is there a fast way to cure pimples?

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers: To cure a pimple dab some benzoyl peroxide and sulfur mix. My favorite is Peter Thomas Roth. The product line contains great spot treatments to use overnight. Another product you can find at your local drug store is Clean & Clear's Persa Gel.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Peter Thomas Roth is available at Sephora.com and Clean & Clear's Persa Gel is available at drugstore.com.

Claudia from Henderson, NV asks:  I have a question regarding the home microdermabrasion kits like the one from Susan Lucci. (Resurfacing tool with sponges and crystal dermabrasion cream) Can you treat the delicate under eye area as well? I know that the under eye skin is very thin, so my concern is if by doing microdermabrasion someone might do more harm than good.

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers: The under eye area is 5-10 times thinner than the rest of your face so you have to be extremely careful especially when using an at-home micro kit.  My opinion is not to use it in that area.

Flaherty fro Los Angeles, CA asks:  What should I do to prevent my face from being so oily?

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers: Try using an oil free cleanser (such as Peter Thomas Roth or Murad) along with an ultra light oil free moisturizer (Peter Thomas Roth and Neutrogena have some great choices). Also, during the day you can carry around some oil controlling pads (Trish McEvoy's are fantastic).  Good Luck! 

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Peter Thomas Roth is available at The SkinStore.com, Neutrogena is available at drugstore.com, Murad is available at Sephora.com, and Trish McEvoy's Oil Control Papers are available at Nordstrom.com

Stacy from Olathe, KS asks: What is the best at home micro dermabrasion product? How well do they work?

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers: My conclusion is that getting a professional treatment goes above and beyond what an at-home kit can do because you are under the care of an expert that can thoroughly clean your pores and use professional ingredients that, after your skin is microdermabraded, will penetrate much better and quicker.  Plus the machine used cost thousands of dollars so the technology is unsurpassed.  At home kits in my opinion, unless they are coupled with some sort of AHA, are glorified facial scrubs.

Emme from Kuala Lumpur asks: Is Microdermabrasion safe for armpits, inner thigh, arms and back? I have done Microdermabrasion on my face and the effect is good. I have some discolouration and acne on my back and arms. The skin specialist I went to told me I should use AHA products on them.

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers: Absolutely!  Micro is great on all parts of the face and body, just don't get too close to you eyes!  You can also use Booty 911 on those parts as well to enhance the exfoliation process.  MD Formulations has an excellent face and body scrub but only use it on your body.  Another on is the pumice scrub with 2.5% benzoyl peroxide by Only Your RX.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Booty 911 is available at SpaCadet.com, MD Formulations is available at mdforumlations.com and information about Only Your RX is available at  onlyyourx.com.

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers: The best under eye cream to use on a budget is a simple Vitamin K. This can be purchased at a health food store or a nutrition center. Also, leave it in the fridge, the cold temperature will help to reduce puffiness.

Diane from Fullerton, CA asks:  How do I get a "no makeup look" that's naturally radiant.   I have dark brown hair brown eyes light skin.

Aylesha from Springfield, VA asks: I have very sensitive skin and I am not sure of what product (mositurizer) I should use on my face. I do have a little bit of acne and a few blackheads. It really is starting to clear up a lot,  but I am afraid my moisturizer is making my face too dry.

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers:  For a light moisturizer, Cetaphil and Eucerin are great for your skin type.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Cetaphil and Eucerin products are available at drugstore.com,

Denise from Smyrna, GA asks: I am debating whether to purchase a home microdermabrasion kit or go to a spa or dermatologist. Are home products effective?

Mariah from San Diego, CA asks:  After waxing my eyebrows for about a year, I recently began noticing that I have bumps underneath the brow. They are not red but, rather, match my skin tone. How can I get rid of them?

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers: You might want to try microdermabrasion.  It sounds like you might have a build up of dead skin cells underneath your brows.  If that is the case, then microdermabrasion with a professional will do the trick.  Make sure you go to someone reputable because doing a clients eye lids is not a common practice, it is a special request. If you don't know someone in your town, then try an at home microdermabrasion kit or a really good scrub made with micro beads.

Marlina from Kuala Lumpur asks:  Since whitening creams are not to be used around the eye areas. What can I use to ensure that the skin color around the eyes is the same as the rest of the face?

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers:  The eye area is extremely delicate. I would also suggest not using whitening creams around the eyes. A good alternative would be a brightening cream from Peter Thomas Roth. Also, contact your dermatologist for some other suggestions. Everyday a new treatment comes out in the market!

P.S. from Beauty Survival: Peter Thomas Roth's AHA/Kojic Under Eye Brightener is available at Beauty.com.

Sharmini from Kuala Lumpur asks:  My face is oily in some areas and dry in other areas. I do have slight acne problem. I don't apply moisturizer on my face everyday, instead I apply it on alternate days, so that it is not so oily and creates more acne. However, sometimes, it gets so dry, that my skin peels off around the nose, cheek and forehead. What should I do? Also, what is the best way to stop acne and remove them? I am now using rose hip oil which seems to be doing its job as the scars are slowly going away.

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers: It seems that your skin is unbalanced.  You are not on a regimen so your skin is overacting in some areas and getting very dry in others.  You need a program that will hydrate the dry areas and balance the oily areas.  Only Your Skin Care RX for normal skin sounds like it would be suited for you.  As for acne, you will experience less if you use the right skin care program but a lot of other things factor into it like lifestyle, sleep, stress, environment.  Think about how your life might affect your skin too.  Are you touching your face?  Are you eating junk food?  These will also contribute to unbalanced skin.  You can soften scars with microdermabrasion but if they are still are still red in color, then they are still healing.  Complex Cu3 Intensive Tissue Repair Creme is excellent for healing the skin. It won't get rid of your scarring but it will help in the healing process.  

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Only Your Skin Care RX is available at Only Your Skin Care Rx and Complex Cu3 Intensive Tissue Repair Creme is available at drugstore.com.

Chimique from South Africa asks:  What can I use for mild acne on face, neck and back.

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers: Mild acne can be treated by benzoyl peroxide and salycilic acid. Try using Neutrogena acne products (especially for body). Peter Thomas Roth carries a fantastic face treatment called Benzoyl Peroxide and Sulfur.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Neutrogena acne products are available at drugstore.com and Peter Thomas Roth Benzoyl Peroxide and Sulfur Acne Medication is available at Beauty.com.

Rebecca from Evansville, IN asks:  Could you recommend a good exfoliant for middle age skin?

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers: There are several exfoliating possibilities for middle aged skin.  You can use one with little round beads.  This is called a manual exfoliant.  There are several on the market. Find one that is suited for your skin type.  Stay away from any exfoliators with shells like an apricot scrub.  This can cause tiny lacerations in the skin. You may also want to consider an exfoliant with AHA like MD Formulations Sensitive Skin Cleanser with glycolic, or the Transport Pads by the Somme Institute.  They are both effective and gentle. I would choose the latter for your age group!

P.S. from Beauty Survival: MD Formulations Facial Cleanser Sensitive Skin Formula is available from Sephora.com and Somme Institute Transport Pads are available from Beauty.com

Chelsea from Akron, CO asks:  My face is has a natural red to it but there are always little bumps.  They are kind of  like zits but aren't red.   I want to have smooth skin without bumps.  Please help me.

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers: The redness and little bumps may be a condition known as rosacea. This skin condition may be difficult to treat. Products with vitamin K and arnica help to calm down any redness. To treat the rosacea a dermatologist may prescribe Metro Gel as a treatment. The sooner you see a doctor the better. You want to treat rosacea in its early stages. Good Luck!

Dark from CA asks:  I recently started waxing my upper lip, but have started to notice that afterwards, tons of dots where the hair use to be are appearing, although  my  hair is blonde, but they seem to be dark dots where the hairs use to be.  How can I get rid of this?  Is it permanent? 

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers: Somehow the after effect of waxing is causing hyperpigmentation in the follicle.  Is the wax temperature to hot?  Is it strip wax or hard wax?  Hard wax seems to be better for the more delicate areas of the body like the face, bikini line and under arms? You can use a fading cream with hydroquinone but be careful with this ingredient.  Do you research before you start using it.  You may also be able to fade the area with gentle exfoliation.  I would also stop waxing for a while to see if it goes away.  If not, see a dermatologist.  Some other questions you may want to ask yourself, are you on any medication that would make your skin sensitive?  Are you going in the sun?

Shawn from Mobile, AL asks: I am only 18 and have bags under my eyes...Is there anything I can use to get rid of them?

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers:  A quick and easy way to get rid of bags is to chill cucumbers and place on the eyes for about fifteen minutes. Also, tea bags can be used the same way. If the bags continue or seem to get larger (the older you get) you may want to see your physician or a plastic surgeon. You may have some fat deposits in that area which can be removed.

Theresa from Oxford, WI asks: What beauty product do you recommend for eliminating skin discolorations on the skin?

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers: Skin discoloration is best addressed with the IPL Photofacial.  This will minimize your skin discoloration within a few treatments.  If this is out of your budget, try Environ, a skincare line from South Africa which uses fresh vitamins A, C, and E to combat all sorts of skin conditions, the main one being hyperpigmentation.  You start with a low level of vitamin A and work your way up to a higher level which will, over time, lighten the pigmentation.  The Somme Institute Skincare line will also do the same thing because of the vitamin A.

P.S. from Beauty Survival - Somme Institute Skincare is sold at Beauty.com.  To find out where to purchase Environ products near you, we suggest you visit their website and contact them via phone or e-mail.

Amy from Sacramento, CA asks:  My problem is with congested pores & large pores. I have tried being super gentle and have tried exfoliating every day. Nothing seems to work; no facial or product has ever cleared up my skin. Is it possible that no matter what I do I will always have this problem? Could it be my diet? (which is fairly good)

Katerina Kolokotronis -  Aesthetician at Grettacole Day Spa in Boston answers:  If your skin is congested a good facial is what you need. Ask your aesthetician to do a deep cleaning (in other words, to extract every clogged pore). Always make sure the aesthetician has a great reputation. Also, do not exfoliate everyday. This will do more damage than good. Exfoliate twice a week with a gentle cleanser that contains glycolic or salicylic acid (this will help to tighten the pores). Book an appointment with your dermatologist to discuss the possibility of topical creams to help clear up your skin. (I only suggest doing so if you've exhausted all other options regarding products). Stress and hormonal factors may also affect your skin.  As far as your diet is concerned, I suggest you cut out refined sugar and starch for a couple of weeks. See how your skin reacts to this change. You can have beautiful skin, you just have to find what works for you.

Caroline from Nashville, TN asks: I am 22 and used to have acne.  Now my skin is pretty clear, but it always seems to be red.  What can I use to diminish the red?  I'm not looking for makeup; I would like a skincare product to actually help resolve the problem.  I have seen DDF's Redness Relief, but I don't know anything about it.  Any suggestions?

Jillian Wright, Aesthetician and Owner of New York City based Glow Skin Spa answers: There are many products on the market that claim they diffuse redness but usually it is only temporary.  Sometimes you don't see results at all.  The best treatment to do, and unfortunately it will cost some money, is to consider the IPL (Intense Pulse Light) Therapy.  This treatment will actually help get rid of the redness as long as you follow the protocol.  Consult your local dermatologist or go to www.skinandhealth.com

Elizabeth from Greensboro, NC asks: I want an eye cream that helps with puffiness, dark circles, and wrinkles. What ingredients should I look for? Do you have any product suggestions?

Lidia Czurgiel - Aesthetician and owner of New York City  based Finesse Day Spa answers: Eye creams are specially designed for the skin around the eye area.  This area is usually more oily-dry, more sensitive, and more prone to lines than other areas of the skin.  Eye cream should be used twice daily.  Products with Vitamin C, Collagen, Elastic Alpha Hydroxy Acid (lactid acid), Phytonutrient Wild Yam, and Blueberry are anti-aging type of ingredients which smooth, retexture fine lines, and protect from premature aging.  Products with plant extracts will help to minimize  dark circles and puffiness.  I can recommend G.M.  Collin Eyelid Relaxing Gel and Dermalogica Intensive Eye Repair.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:

G.M.  Collin Eyelid Relaxing Gel is available at Naturally Yours Skin Care Store and Dermalogica Intensive Eye Repair is available at CosmeticMall.com.

Erin Foo from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia asks:  How do you  get rid of pimples, blackheads, freckles, and scars?

Lidia Czurgiel - Aesthetician and owner of New York City  based Finesse Day Spa answers: You have a lot going on with your skin.  Unfortunately, without seeing you face to face, I can't evaluate such things as   grade of acne, etc.  Therefore,  it would be imprudent to suggest  a  course of action  in regard to your skin and its problems .  My suggestion would be to  see an appropriate health care professional who can analyze your skin and propose the right regimen for you.

Rachel from Grand Rapids, MI asks:  What products are effective in eliminating milla under the eye area?

Lidia Czurgiel - Aesthetician and owner of New York City  based Finesse Day Spa answers:  Milia are small deposits of sebum between the follicle and the corneum. A lot of people have problems with milia. You can get very good results from extraction of milia, but the treatment has to be performed by a very highly trained esthetician. To minimize the problem with milia,  never use heavy creams loaded with emollients on your skin and please try to avoid comedogenic type of products. You can use Kerato-Peel from GM Collin line. It is going to be very helpful, but it will not eliminate the problem with milia.

P.S. from Beauty Survival: 

GM Collin Kerato-Peel is sold at Naturally Yours Skin Care Store

Karyn from Staten Island, NY asks:  I want to know what is the best cream for getting rid of dark circles under the eyes.

Lidia Czurgiel -Aesthetician and owner of New York City  based Finesse Day Spa answers:  The best products to minimize problems with dark circles under the eyes are: Catherine Atzen Eye and Lip Emulsion from Intensite Line. You can use this cream everyday in the evening. For the day time you can use Total Eye Care from Dermalogica which diminishes the appearance of dark circles. I highly recommend series of Lymphobiology Treatments or Manual Lymphatic Drainage massage. Both treatments improve circulation and can minimize problems with dark circles.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:

Catherine Atzen Eye and Lip Emulsion is available from Atzen.com and Dermalogica's Total Eye Care is available at CosmeticMall.com.

Dawn from Jenkintown, PA asks:  What can be done non surgically about under eye bags/fat pockets any product to reduce?

Lidia Czurgiel - Aesthetician and owner of New York City  based Finesse Day Spa answers:  If the problem with bags under the eyes is not connected with circulatory or kidney diseases, you can use compresses made from rosemary and arnica for the eye area. Please, try to use very good quality eye products and you can try lymphobiology treatments which is going to change the texture of the skin and minimize problems with the bags under the eyes.

Melissa from Philadelphia, Mississippi asks:  I need a very heavy facial moisturizer.  I just purchased Bare Minerals and I can make it work but it is not for dry skin at all.  What is a good, heavy moisturizer that won't clog pores?

Lidia Czurgiel -Aesthetician and owner of New York City  based Finesse Day Spa answers: Many ingredients used in cosmetics can contribute to the development of comedones of all types (opened-blackheads or closed-small bumps just underneath the surface of the skin). Closed comedones are often caused by comedogenic reaction to cosmetics. Closed comedones can be found on any area of the face. Often they can be found on the cheek bones of women. These are often caused by a comedogenic reaction to blush. Sometimes clients have predispositions for milia (small deposits of sebum between the follicle and the corneum). This may be associated with the use of heavy creams loaded with emollients for treating dry or dehydrated skin. A milium is not the same as a comedone.  Always use noncomedogenic products. I recommend Skin Smoothing Cream from Dermalogica or Sensiderm Cream from GM Collin Line.

Fatima from Washington, DC asks:  Although I'm just 23 years old I can see fine lines under my eyes already. Maybe its the cold and windy weather in DC which has effected me, since I'm new here, I'm not sure. I'm hoping that you can suggest me some product or treatment. I'm using Johnsons Baby Lotion because it makes my skin soft.

Lidia Czurgiel - Aesthetician and owner of New York City  based Finesse Day Spa answers:  Skin around the eyes is more delicate and ages faster than the rest of the body.  It is very important to take good care of it.  Always use a very good eye cleanser, eye cream and once a week try to do a special eye treatment.  Always use lukewarm water to remove impurities and make-up from the eye area.  In the morning, try to use an eye cream with SPF in it.  Always wear sunglasses when the sun is out, even in the winter-time, because sun damages the skin around the eyes quickly.  

You could try the following G.M. Collin products. Royal Jelly Cleanser (twice a day - it dissolves impurities, make-up, and keeps skin around the eyes moisturized), Eyelid Sculpture Cream (in the evening - is recommended for young skin, particularly beneficial for eyelids and crow's feet, dehydrated skin around the eyes, and small wrinkles), Eye RelaxingGel (in the evening - is beneficial for puffy eyes, bags, crow's feet and small wrinkles.  You could also try Dermalogica Total Eye Care with SPF 15 (use in the morning - protects the skin around the eyes against UV damage).  A once-a-week treatment would be recommended as follows: (1) Cleanse the skin around the eyes with Royal Jelly Cleanser, (2) Exfoliate with G.M. Collin Exfozyme and moisten gauze or cotton with G.M. Collin Isotonic Lotion and place it on the eyelids for 5 minutes, (3) Remove Exfozyme with lukewarm water, (4) Apply G.M. Collin Hydromucine Mask around the eye area and leave on for 15 minutes, (5) Rinse off  with water, (6) Apply G.M. Collin Eye Relaxing Gel or Sculpture Cream around the eyes, depending upon the skin condition around the eye.  Professional eye treatment at a spa would be recommended once a week for six weeks.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  G.M. Collin Products are available at Naturally Yours Skin Care Store.  Dermalogica Total Eye Care is available at CosmeticMall.com, and Greatskin.com.

Make Up

Yolanda from Dallas, TX asks:  I am a brunette, have light skin, and brown eyes.  What make up looks best on me from eyes to foundation to lips?

Katrina Hess - Professional Makeup Artist and Owner of  Katrina Hess Weddings in Boston answers:  In regard to  foundation, it needs to be a perfect match to your skin color.  Colors that look good with brown eyes are golds, browns, nude, deep blue and violet. There are many, many colors you can use on your lips. Deep plums are hot for fall and look good with fair skin and brown eyes.

Mona from Bahrain asks:  Hi I'm 24 years old and I want to have a nice tan for a change.  However, I am very sensitive to the sun and burn easily. What is the best fake tanning lotion or spray to use that will give the most natural look?

Nicole Le Bris -Professional Makeup Artist-www.nicolelebris.com answers:  There are a few great tanning products out there. A great new product is Jergens Natural Glow. It's a daily moisturizer and you can use it like you would a normal moisturizer. It slowly adds color so there are no streaks and also no orange skin. I like to think of it as a fool proof application. However like any self tanning product be sure to wash hands really well after use.  L'Oreal makes a great line called Sublime Bronze. They have gels and lotions and many different formulas. The trick with using any self tanning product is not make sure it is completely and evenly rubbed into your skin. Use a small amount, like a dime size for your calves (for example) and just keep on rubbing until you can barely feel the lotion. Remember to wait at least a half hour before coming in contact with any clothing.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Jergens Natural Glow and L'Oreal Sublime Bronze are available at drugstore.com.

Heather from Quarryville, PA asks: How can I use eye shadow to make my eyes look bigger?

Nicole Le Bris -Professional Makeup Artist-www.nicolelebris.com answers:   There are a few ways you can do this. One way is to try using a white or light beige pencil in the inside of your eye, the membrane which protect your eyeball. On particular eye shapes it can look too obvious but on others it can be a very effective way to create an optical illusion of the eye, making it look bigger than it is. Make sure your eye pencil is frequently sharpened to prevent spreading bacteria in your eye. Using a darker colored shadows on the top of the especially on the top lid, can also help make the eye look bigger, I find this particularly true on darker colored eyes. Experiment using a darker color on the outside corner of your eyes and a shimmer color on the upper middle part, just above the pupil. This shimmer and help bring the eye forward and appear bigger.

Kristy from Berlin, NH asks: I'm female, 24 years old, and am getting married next month. I have fairly pale skin, brown eyes. I'll be getting married in a white dress, outside in a beautiful flower garden. I'm wondering what color eye shadow and lipstick I should be wearing? I have no idea what would look good! Please tell me, thank you!

Wendy Levitt - Professional Makeup Artist answers:  What you want for your wedding day is to look like you but just a better version.  It really is not about colors, it is about the technique and the tools you use.  If you are doing your own makeup, simple is usually better.  Use a basic all over color like Paula Dorf "Cherub," a crease color like Paula Dorf "Hypnotic," a lid color like Paula Dorf "Desire," and a liner like Paula Dorf "Sea Cruze" applyed to the lashline with the Paula Dorf "transformer" and a flat brush.  A good lipcolor like Paula Dorf "Pretty" looks nice in pictures.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Paula Dorf products are available from Beauty.com,  Sephora.com, and Pauladorf.com.

Erica from Waterville, ME asks:  Hello. I am almost 18 years old and I need sone help on makeup. I am looking for a natural look and I don't like to wear a lot of makeup. So less is better. I have brown curly hair, brown almond eyes, and a heart shaped face. What should I do?

Katrina Hess - Professional Makeup Artist and Owner of  Katrina Hess Weddings in Boston answers:  I suggest using a tinted moisturizer (I like Laura Mercier's), a soft bronzer (I suggest Lancôme), neutral eye shadows in gold brown hues,  (Almay or Bobbi Brown have nice shades), and a light shimmer lip-gloss (L'Oreal has nice lip glosses).

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Laura Mercier is available from Sephora.com, Lancome is available from Sephora.com, Bobbi Brown is available from CosmeticMall.com, and Almay and L'Oreal are available at drugstore.com.

Chantal from Washington, DC asks: I am 25 years old and have been trying to determine what shades look best on me for a long time. I have olive skin, as I am part Arab, but have very pale grey eyes, from my Scottish mother. What colors would suit me?

John Ottavino - Professional Makeup Artist and Educator answers: The colors that would be best for your skin tone are as follows.  Foundation should have a yellow-based tint;  Eyes should have a red-brown tone (warm colors); Lips can vary.  Bright colors (reds, oranges, pinks) will add a brightness to your face and warm berry colors will add drama and depth.

Rebecca from Westbury, NY asks:  Is there a tinted moisturizer for black people?

John Ottavino - Professional Makeup Artist and Educator answers: There are various tinted moisturizers for women of color. Some of the more popular brands are MAC, Iman, and Fashion Fair.  Please note that you should patch test on your jaw line - if the product disappears it is the right color. Also, traditionally, women of color have a difference in color from their face to neck, so choose which area you want to match.

Tabatha from Leesport, PA asks:  I'm going to a wedding soon where the reception is pretty formal. My question is I need help on applying makeup that is appropriate for the church ceremony, and how to turn that into a good evening look for the reception without having to re do all of my makeup. Any tips you could give me would be very helpful.

Katrina Hess - Professional Makeup Artist and Owner of  Katrina Hess Weddings in Boston answers: for special occasion makeup changing from am to pm. I would keep the foundation natural. Use a face primer after moisturizer and before face makeup. I like Sheiseido's pre-makeup cream.. Apply foundation after pre-makeup cream. Set with powder. Keep the eyes sheer and shimmer. For the AM use a soft natural lip color. When changing PM try a deeper and glossy lip color. Add extra liner to the eyes. You You could also try adding a shimmer powder to the cheek bones. I like Laura Mercier's Stardust.

Sherrill from Swansea, UK asks:  I am in my late forties and have noticed that the skin on the tip of my nose id becoming gradually redder. I would like some hints on how to tackle this as I am becoming very self conscious about it.

Nicole Le Bris -Professional Makeup Artist-www.nicolelebris.com answers: 

Redness around the nose isn't uncommon at all. Actually I have no idea why this happens, but I can definitely give you some tips on covering it. For some people just a dab of concealer around the nose will do, but if that doesn't work, you may want to try some thicker concealer formulas that are specifically for redness. There is actually a product called Red-Away, and others of similar names. They are of a greener color than regular concealer shades. Looking at the color it shouldn't look green, but if you were to compare it to a normal beige or tan or ivory color concealer it would definitely look more grey/ashy or green. I actually keep a moisturizer in my kit that is specifically for redness. It is for sensitive skin and meant to calm the redness. Maybe try something similar to this before putting on your makeup.

P.S. from Beauty Survival: Joe Blasco's Red-away is available at Diamondbeauty.com.

Ish from Toronto, Canada asks: I'm an African Canadian woman and my question is what products are there that I can buy that will give me an illusion of wearing makeup, if I don't want to wear make up during summer?  Also, how do you know if your skin undertone is red/orange or yellow? I can't tell the difference.

Michelle Cutler - Professional Makeup Artist and owner of Absolute Radiance answers: I'd recommend a tinted moisturizer, oil-free, for the summer, a bit of mascara, creme blush blended in with fingers, and lip gloss. Iman has a nice line for women of color. The best way to figure out the undertone of your skin, is to try foundation on. Foundations are made with either pinkish or yellowish hues. Put a little of each, as close to your own skin color level as possible, and see which blends in the best. Prescriptives made a whole marketing thing with this, to match up their customers to the closest shade of foundation they can find.

Salma from Brooklyn, NY asks:  My face is about two shades darker than the rest of my body, due to acne and scarring.  If I use a foundation that matches the rest of my body, it looks to chalky on my face.  And if I use one that matches my face it makes my face look much darker than my chest and arms...what should I do?

John Ottavino - Professional Makeup Artist and Educator answers: The shade of foundation is equally as important as the tone. Usually acne scarring creates a redness in your skin. You can combat this redness by using a foundation with a light yellow undertone.  This should help match the color of your face to the color of your body.  Additionally, blend your foundation down your neck to even out the color difference.

Jan from Ormond Beach FL asks: Is there anything you can add to mascara when it becomes dry and hard to apply? Sometimes it can be a new tube or it can happen after just a week or two.

Michelle Cutler - Professional Makeup Artist and owner of Absolute Radiance answers: Some mascaras are drier than others. However, make sure you are not "pumping" the wand in and out of the tube. That can dry mascaras out quickly. Mascara should be thrown out after 2 - 3 months. The preservatives don't last longer than that, so your mascara gets lots of bacteria from your lashes, and you risk an infection. If your mascara is somewhat new, you can try a drop of eye makeup remover to wetten it, but don't expect too much. Once they dry out, that's about it for that tube! I have good luck with L'Oreal mascaras, they seem to last a while.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  L'Oreal mascaras are available from drugstore.com.

Denise from Fairfield, CT asks:  I have acne scars on my cheeks. I would like to know which brand of foundation and blush I can use for coverage?

Michelle Cutler - Professional Makeup Artist and owner of Absolute Radiance answers: You may want to try Dermablend, just dotted on the scars themselves. Then loose translucent powder to set. Regular oil-free foundation on the rest of the face, and powder. Powder blush, oil-free, that has no frost would be best.  You need to have a makeup artist or salesperson recommend the shade of Dermablend. If the scars are red, you need a yellow shade, but the shade would have to be determined by your skin tone.

P.S. from Beauty Survival: Dermablend is available at The SkinStore.com.

Denise from Bangor, ME asks: I've been trying to find a mascara that doesn't smudge under my eyes. I have allergies, so my eyes tend to water more and in turn I end up with raccoon eyes. Is there a mascara you could recommend that won't smudge?  

John Ottavino - Professional Makeup Artist and Educator answers:  The best possible solution for this pervasive problem (not just with women who have allergies, like you, but with all women) is NOT to wear mascara on your bottom lashes.  No matter what brand of mascara (even waterproof ones), they tend to smudge and flake.  Instead, use an eyeliner (in black or brown) under yours eyes.  It will achieve the same effect of mascara without the hassle of smudges or "raccoon eyes."  That's what I use on my celebrity clients instead of mascara.

Gayle from Severna Park, Maryland asks:  I have sensitive eyes. I have tried Almay and I'm not crazy about it and Clinique irritates me. What other eye make ups are good for sensitive eyes? 

Michelle Cutler - Professional Makeup Artist and owner of Absolute Radiance answers: Your sensitivity could be due to any ingredient, even one that is gentle on eyes.  You should be sure to use an oil-free eye make-up remover, not to cause further problems. As far as makeup is concerned, you just need to keep trying, one item at a time, until you hit on products that don't bother you.

Merrie from Leawood, KS asks:  I cannot find a good undereye concealer. I have pale, dry skin w/crowsfeet. I cannot find one that both covers up and does NOT seep into the creases and make them stand out even more.

Katrina Hess - Professional Makeup Artist and Owner of  Katrina Hess Weddings in Boston answers:  I like using a light weight eye cream first, then with a concealer brush feather stoke Laura Mercier's Secret concealer then setting with Laura Mercier's powder especially formulated for setting concealer under the eye.

P.S. from Beauty Survival - Laura Mercier products are available from Sephora.com.

Joelle from Portland, OR asks:  I have dark circles under my eyes that won't go away.  Sleeping more hasn't worked and I'm tired of trying to cover them up.  How can I get rid of them without spending a bunch of money on products, something under $10.

Wendy Levitt - Professional Makeup Artist answers:  

Rebecca from Shelburne Co. Canada asks:  I have large eyes that protrude.  I find myself squinting all the time to hide their size.  Is there any makeup technique that I can use to minimize their look?

Nicole Le Bris -Professional Makeup Artist-www.nicolelebris.com answers: Well I can tell you little tricks to help you minimize this. First you should stay away from any shimmer on the eye which will give them more dimension and draw attention to them. Highlighting with shimmer will make the eye come forward while matte powers will make them recede. So stick with matte powders on your eyelid. You might want to try using an eyeliner near the top of your lashline and using a brush to blend it into your eyelid. Dark colors recede while lighter colors come forward, so stick with darker colors. Also try lining the inside of your eye, on the membrane part, next to your eyeball. This can help close the eye a little.

Wendy Levitt - Professional Makeup Artist answers:  

P.S. from Beauty Survival: Paula Dorf Products are available at Sephora.com

Jacquetta from Flint MI asks: I am an African American woman who is proud of my heritage but does not like some things about my ethnicity.  I do not like the size of my lips and would like to minimize them. Is there a non-surgical way to minimize their size. Also, I would like a safe, permanent way to lighten my overall complexion.  I need an economical system that is cheaper and will last longer than an average 4 oz bottle does. Got any tips.

Katrina Hess - Professional Makeup Artist and Owner of  Katrina Hess Weddings in Boston answers:  Although there is no easy answer, I would use a neutral lip color with no gloss. Also you could try using a heavier concealer, the same shade as your skin, on the outside edges of your lip. If you do this, you should then use a neutral lip pencil then lipstick.  There are many professional lightening products. I would go to a dermatologist who could suggest an appropriate product.

Barbara from Kendall, WI asks:  What treatment and shadowing techniques are recommended for those lovely "creapy" eyelids for those of us over 50?

Katrina Hess - Professional Makeup Artist and Owner of  Katrina Hess Weddings in Boston answers: First, start with a Vitamin C eye cream. B. Kamins makes a good one. I also like Shiseido's Benefiance  eye cream. There's no Vitamin C but it's a really good moisturizing treatment. Second, opening up the eyelid by waxing or tweezing the brows. Third, use a moisturizing eye shadow. I like Laura Mercier's, Bobbie Brown's and Almay. The cream shadow doesn't stay on long so start with a eye primer. I like Paula Dorf's Eye Primer. Use, a very thin eyeliner close to the lashes. Use more liner on the upper lid then the lower. Also, lot's of mascara. Or, I like to put on artificial eyelashes. They open the eye without adding a lot of makeup on the lids. Most important, Don't over-apply too much color on the lids. It draws attention to the problem.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  B. Kamins is available at Beauty.com, Shiseido is available at StrawberryNET.com, Laura Mercier is available at Sephora.com, Bobbie Brown is available at CosmeticMall.com, Almay is available at drugstore.com, and Paula Dorf is available at Beauty.com.

Shana from Christchurch, NZ asks:  I've never plucked my eyebrows before, and my senior prom is next week! I want to neaten them up, but I can't afford a salon and I don't know how to tweeze.  Should I go wax them? Also, I'm not sure if I should buy foundation and blush, or just skip it. If you recommend that I should buy it, should I buy liquid foundation or powder? Help!

Nicole Le Bris - Professional Makeup  Artist -  www.nicolelebris.com answers: Well if your eyebrows aren't too bushy or unruly, I would leave well enough alone than to butcher them. Or you can draw with a black or white pencil the ideal eyebrow shape you would want (do this right on top of eyebrows) then just tweeze the strays that are way outside that line. I wouldn't mess around with wax if you never have before and especially before such an important event. As for foundation... powder is more fool proof than foundation, it will just blend easier, but won't give you good coverage. If your not sure if the color is right for your liquid foundation - than just mix with moisturizer and spread it like you would put cream on your face. Be sure to go down onto your neck then just go back and spot treat where you want more coverage. Blending is key with foundations of any texture. If you'd like to go for blush, go ahead - but just go very lightly. Also try adding a little of your blush color to your eyelids to warm them up. Finish with mascara and gloss and your ready to go.

Tara from Limon, Co asks: I have freckles and I ABSOLUTELY HATE them!!!!!!!! Even putting on foundation won't cover them up. How can I cover them without looking fake?

Michelle Cutler - Professional Makeup Artist and owner of Absolute Radiance answers: I think freckles are cute and make the person look very healthy and sun-kissed! But you're the one wearing them, and sounds like you're not as enamored of 'em as I am. Anyway, there's not much you can do, except wear strong coverage foundation. You can try Dermablend. It covers even tattoos, but it's very thick and heavy. You'd have to get it at a specialty makeup place, it's really not a department store item. Or maybe on-line. The hard part will be determining what shade you should wear without an expert with you. In the meantime, use sunscreen so the freckles don't get any darker, and why not play up your lips or eyes to take focus away from the freckles?

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Dermablend is available at CosmeticMall.com and The SkinStore.com.

Barb from Cleveland, OH asks:  How long can you use blush for before you need to get a new one?  Does it expire?

Nicole Le Bris -Professional Makeup Artist-www.nicolelebris.com answers: Hi Barb.  Well I don't think blush has an expiration date. You just have to use your judgment. If it's smells funny or the top layer of the product itself is turning hard - that's a sign it's past it's prime.  You'll be able to notice because your brush won't pick up as much pigment and not as much color will go on your skin.  However a cream blush you shouldn't keep for more than a year, otherwise it's breeding ground for bacteria.  Storing your blush properly in a tight lid will definitely pro long it's life, which also goes for any other makeup product as well. Good luck!

Kathy from Bensalem, PA asks:   Can you recommend any products that will work well to hide laugh lines and  wrinkles around the forehead.   I have tried other products but they don't do what they say they they will  do.   I  want to use it before I put on my makeup just to soften them because my makeup cakes in the lines.  Although  I can get injections I just want something that is temporary.  Thanks.

Katrina Hess - Professional Makeup Artist and Owner of  Katrina Hess Weddings in Boston answers: Start with Joey New York's  Mini Power Peel to exfoliate and smooth the skin.   Follow up with Joey New York Line Up. This fills in and plumps up the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

P.S. From Beauty Survival:  The Joey New York Mini Power Peel is part of their MediSpa Skin Booster System.  Both the MediSpa Skin Booster System and Line Up can be purchased at The SkinStore.com.

Allison from St. Louis, MO asks: I am 13, a blue/green eyed blonde. I have fair color skin. What color eye shadow do you think would look best on me? My friends urge me to keep away from the blue colors in eye shadow. I've experimented with different colors, (pink, basically), but you can hardly tell I have it on.   Also, is it true that makeup is supposed to look natural? Thanks for your time!

Katrina Hess - Professional Makeup Artist and Owner of  Katrina Hess Weddings in Boston answers: Absolutely, makeup is to look natural.  Let's enhance not over do.  Less is best. For blue/green eye color and fair skin, I suggest light shimmer base eye color in soft pink/gold suck as Makeup Forever star dust, Laura Mercier in Mauve and a light brown eye shadow such as Laura Mercier in American coffee.  Stay with glowy colors and shiny lips. Nars blush in Sin would be good as well.

P.S from Beauty Survival: Makeup Forever stardust and Nars blush in Sin are  available at Sephora.com.  Laura Mercier colors are available at Sephora.com

Susan from Jacksonville, FL asks: Why do my eyes (and most of my face) swell so badly when I cry? It is DAYS sometimes before the swelling goes away. What can I do?

Michelle Cutler - Professional Makeup Artist and owner of Absolute Radiance answers:  Try some Preparation H!!!!  Believe it or not! It's an old trick that we do on models and TV people with puffy eyes.   Put a thick layer around  the eyes, not too close to the eyes. Wipe off after 15-20 minutes. Also, have you also tried cold compresses?

Donna from Tullahoma, TN asks:  How can I prevent my lipstick from coming off in the center of my lips shortly after application?  I want lasting coverage on the entire lip.  Any suggestions?  Thanks.

Nicole Le Bris -Professional Makeup Artist-www.nicolelebris.com answers:  Well that's a tough question.... The center of the lip is the first place any lipstick is going wear down.  There's a variety of formulas out there.   Gloss is such a hot look for lips, however it's the hardest to stay on. As far as lipstick, creamy textures seem to be the best way to go for moisture for your lips as well as longevity.  There are also long lasting lipsticks that stay for quite a while, like Max Factor Lipfinity for example. However depending on your lip condition these can wear in very different ways, some resulting in flakiness or even blotchiness.  You should try a different variety of these, and see how they work with your lips. I've found the best way to keep lipstick on is to apply a coat then powder with a translucent powder then reapply. The glossier the finish the less likely to stay on. Also you might want to take notice if you maybe have a habit of licking your lips when you talk, or pressing your lips together every so often. These habits can wear your lipstick down way faster than it should.

Gloria from Columbus, Georgia asks: I am a 50+ African- American Woman who has good skin tone.  However, I have always been plagued with dark circles.  Nothing seems to work.  I have tried concealer after concealer.  ( My skin tone has shades of yellow). Now, I have noticed that I am experiencing crepiness under the eye and when I apply makeup it seems to exacerbate the problem even more.  I spend most of my time trying to cover up.  I am using Ester Lauder's eye creme, at this moment, but I have not seen any improvement. Do you have any suggestions on what product I could use to improve on this area?  Help, I am at my wit's end.

Katrina Hess - Professional Makeup Artist and Owner of  Katrina Hess Weddings in Boston answers:  You  need to use a richer eye cream.  I would suggest  Shiseido's Benefeince eye cream, with Shiseido's concealer in yellow mixed with their  concealer in a tone close to your  natural color.  Example - equal parts yellow with the neutral tone.  Apply with a concealer brush over  a small amount of eye cream.

P.S. From Beauty Survival:  Benefeince eye cream is available at CosmeticMall.com.  I have been unable to locate Shiseido's concealers on-line (and you probably need to pick your color in person.)  I suggest that you contact Shiseido, directly, to find the store nearest you which carries the concealer.  You can also check out the concealer on their site.

Teresa from Wales, UK asks:  I have tried to find a concealer for undereye dark circles and none of them seem to work.  In fact, I am now questioning whether the problem is dark circles.  I am a 35 year old female with a round full face.  It's no fatter than usual but I seem to have "panda eyes" now, unsightly round circles.  Can you advise me on a concealer that might work or advise me whether the problem may be my chubby cheeks.  Please help as my eyes were once my best feature.

Michelle Cutler - Professional Makeup Artist and owner of Absolute Radiance answers: Undereye circles are usually blue to brown in color.  So, you need a concealer that has an orange undertone (as opposed to pink, which a lot of them are).  For television, I use a brand called Joe Blasco.  The shade is orange hilight #1.  (There's also an orange hilight #2 if your skin is medium to dark toned.)  I know you can get it at Alcone Cosmetics here in New York,  (212-633-0551).  I think it's great.  I also like Lancome's Correcteur, but it's yellow, so it's good if there's a bit of red in your undereye circles. It's also good for blemishes, etc.  Put the concealer directly on the dark part of the circle, blend with fingertip, then lightly powder with a loose translucent.  Then, blend your foundation around it.  Also, try to drink more water, and get your sleep!!!   Let us know how you do.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  The Lancome Correcteur that Michelle referred to is named Maquicomplet and available at CosmeticMall.com.

Liz from New York City asks: I have a tiny annoying red birthmark, but none of the concealers I have tried have actually stayed put.  Any suggestions?

Katrina Hess - Professional Makeup Artist and Owner of  Katrina Hess Weddings in Boston answers:  HI Liz, Try using either Laura Mercier secret camouflage or Shu Uemura mark concealer. I use both of these for hard to cover areas. I also use these for tattoo covers! Good luck.

P.S. from Beauty Survival -- Shu Uemura is available at Sephora.com and Laura Mercier is available at Sephora.com.

Caroline from New York City asks:  How long can you keep lipstick before it goes bad?

Nicole Le Bris -Professional Makeup Artist-www.nicolelebris.com answers: Hello Caroline, thanks for writing in. Well lipstick can last pretty long, but that depends on a few things. Every brand is different. You probably notice that some lipsticks start to smell a bit funny after a while, which is a pretty good sign that it may be carrying bacteria and to get rid of it. Also if you notice a change in texture, that is also a telltale sign. Even if you see or smell no difference I would say keep lipstick no more than a year.

Ann from Austin, TX asks:  How can I minimize facial lines on an over 50 face?

Michelle Cutler - Professional Makeup Artist and owner of Absolute Radiance answers: Use a moisturizer for your skin type, (preferably with sunblock), and an eye cream to help crepiness around eyes.  Don't forget night cream for face, throat, and eye area. There are also "light diffusing" moisturizers and foundations on the market which help minimize lines by deflecting light. Yves Saint Laurent makes a product called Touche Eclat that is a pen-shaped highlighter with light deflecting capability, great in the circles around the eyes. We like this product a lot. Keep makeup natural and soft, do not use eyeliner under the eye, only on top, as this can draw attention to any lines or crepiness under the eye.

P.S. from Beauty Survival -- Touche Eclat is available at neimanmarcus.com

Hair

Saira from Port Arthur, TX asks: I want to highlight my hair, but I don't know what color to put in. My hair is a burgundy/cherry-cola color already from previous rinses, and I was thinking about adding chestnut brown highlights. Is brown the color palette I should be looking or should I be in the red family?

Christopher Gamper - Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in NYC   (212-924-1127) answers:   Chestnut is not the way to go as it is in a different color family than your burgundy hair.  A better way to go is in the red family.

Julianne from West Hills, CA asks:  I am tired of the maintenance of coloring my gray and wonder how I can grow it out-- maybe a weave of pale platinum highlights? My base color is dark brown, with 65 % gray, and I color it a medium golden brown.

Christopher Gamper - Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in NYC   (212-924-1127) answers:   Adding platinum high lights is one option, it's a good place to start. It will decrease the line of demarcation in the beginning. I do suggest though as your natural hair keeps coming in you do a combination of Platinum high lights and Brown low lights matching your natural color shade to help the growing out process. Or your can let your hair grow out 2 inches and get a really short hair cut, I prefer the the other option!!!!

Karen from Kahului, HI asks:  I use a flat iron to straighten out my hair should I be using something to spray or to put on my hair while I am flat ironing my hair? Can you suggest what kind of product?

STANLEY - Stylist, Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in New York City  (212-924-1127) answers:  I would recommend that you use a little of Ecru's Silk Nectar Serum on your hair.... this is great stuff that you can use on wet hair to blow your hair out and then a few drops on the ends before you flat iron it.. Just a few drops will do... I repeat.... a few drops will do.  Good luck.

P.S. from Beauty Survival: Ecru's Silk Nectar is available from HeavenSpa.com.

Elena from New York, NY asks: I'm Asian and have curly, frizzy hair. I relaxed my hair 5 months ago, and the results are wearing off. Can I relax it again? In the future, how long should I wait between sessions?

STANLEY - Stylist, Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in New York City   (212-924-1127) answers:  5 Months is certainly more than enough time. Just keep in mind that you should have the re-growth done and if your ends need freshening up it should be done at the very end of the chemical service and only for a short period of time. You do not want chemical over lap to occur that is when your hair starts to dry out and possibly break. In the future you can go every 8 to 12 weeks for a straightening touch up, that will be enough time for your hair to grow long enough so that the stylist will not over lap but be short enough time that you won't have to walk around looking bad!!!!!

Deanna from Vancouver, BC asks:  I have light blonde hair that was highlighted a year ago. I had my hair permed last month, and now my hair is really yellow looking. Is this from the perm? Can it be corrected without highlighting my hair again (since I don't want to fry may hair)?

STANLEY - Stylist, Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in New York City   (212-924-1127) answers: Why would you want to get a perm... it's one of the most damaging chemical procedures to put both your hair shaft and scalp through ... especially on colored hair. And if you hate the perm in a month your stuck with it until it grows out or you cut all the perm out. No more perms. I am very anti perm. But since the damage is done, in answer to your question, yes a perm can turn your highlights yellow. Your own natural blonde hair could have also been lightened up by the sun and which would have add to an even more yellow cast. What you need to do to kill the yellow is tone or glaze the hair. Your salon should be able to do this.

Denise from Bangor, MI asks:  What shampoo and Conditioner would you recommend for thick, course curly hair?

STANLEY - Stylist, Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in New York City   (212-924-1127) answers: You should be using DevaCurl's "No-Poo" for cleaning your hair. It has no sulfates, which produces the lather in shampoos but sulfates are also very drying to the hair. NoPoo will not lather so don't think it's not working. You should not be cleansing (or shampooing) your hair more than twice a week... you can rinse your hair with water as much as you want then condition but stay away from shampooing any more than that. DevaCurl's "One Conditioner" is great but if you need something a little more hearty than I would recommend Goldwell's Kerasilk conditioner for dry and damaged hair.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  DevaCurl is available at CosmeticMall.com.  Goldwell's Kerasilk products are available at diamondbeauty.com.

Michele from New York, NY asks:  I've had thermal reconditioning done on my hair a few times. I have a lot of breakage on front of my head. I try to condition as much as possibly, but these hairs are thinner and curlier (my hair is naturally only a little wavy) than the rest of my head. Is there anything I can do to help it? I'm forced to straight iron the front of my hair, which I know damages it even further. If I don't, it's all poofy. I don't want to do thermal reconditioning any more, but I don't know how else to get the front hair manageable.

STANLEY - Stylist, Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in New York City   (212-924-1127) answers:  The hair around your face is the most fragile of hair. You're doing the right thing by conditioning as much as you can. I would first recommend that you try not to shampoo this hair as often as you might be doing. Just rinse with this hair with water and condition. If you feel you must iron your hair, try not to do it so often. Also, try sleeping with a silk or satin scarf at night...this will help keep your hair straight and from losing it's moisture.

Maria from Holbrook, NY asks: I would like to know your recommendations for at least three fantastic hair conditioners that are safe for colored hair. I have colored my hair for many years, and it has become very dry.

Christopher Gamper - Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in NYC   (212-924-1127) answers: Kerasilk Ultra Rich Care by Goldwell Hair Cosmetics, and Biogenol Reconditioner by Framesi are 2 good conditioner by companies that make hair color as well as being daily conditioners. Two deep conditioners are Real Cream by Alfa Parf which is my choice as it is very good at closing down and smoothing out the cuticle of the hair, especially after a color service, and the last is Ultra Deep Masque by Framesi.  All of these are the top sellers at our salon.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  Keraskilk Ultra Rich Care and Ultra Deep Masque by Framesi are available at forestbeauty.com.  Alfa Parf Real Cream is available at Metro Beauty Center, and Biogenol Reconditioner is available at spiralhaircase.com.

Ellie from the U.K. asks: The underneath of my hair is my natural colour (a rich dark brown), the top of my hair has been highlighted for years and is now basically blonde. I would like to see what I would look like with my natural colour back. I thought I could use a sort of "wash in wash out" product to temporarily see if I would like my hair brown again, and then if not just keep my blonde, but my hairdresser said that the temporary colour would cling to my highlights and basically ruin my hair. Is he right? Surely there is a "wash in wash out" sort of product that is suitable for me? I live in the UK. My hair is waist-length, in quite good condition, is quite fine, and the roots tend to get greasy, whereas the ends of my hair go dry.

Christopher Gamper - Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in NYC   (212-924-1127) answers: Your hairdresser is right on the money! There is no such product that washes in and then is gone in a few shampoos. If there was, Blondes the world over would be "trying out" how they would look as a red head or a brunette and going right back to their blonde hair if they didn't like it. If you are a natural rich dark brown underneath and you have been high lighting your hair blonde for years you must understand that your hair is very porous and even a color categorized as "temporary" will become "permanent" once it is put over your blonde hair. Think of it this way: When you spill red wine on a white carpet the wine stains on contact or think of spilling grape juice on a white tee shirt. because your hair is so pale compared to the dark brown it absorbs the color and that color becomes "permanent". If you really want to see how you would look as a brunette and are not sure how you like it, try visiting a wig store and trying on wigs in tones that interest you and in similar style to your own hair, This will give you a good enough Idea what you look like and whether or not you want to proceed with changing your hair color.

Cynthia from Toronto, Canada asks:  Lately I have been fighting this yellow brassiness.  My hairstylist thinks it could be minerals (rust) in my well water.  Is that  possible?  If so, should I being using reverse-osmosis water to wash and rinse my hair and also, do you have any other recommendations for  reducing brassiness?   I would welcome your comments.

Christopher Gamper - Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in NYC   (212-924-1127) answers:  Minerals in the your water can effect your color though I do not know what reverse-osmosis water is. Before you get into all kind of water purification, try using a color refresher condition.  Goldwell hair cosmetics make one called "Color Glow"  the shade is "Live Blonde", it is a blue violet based tone and it will help control that brassiness.

P.S. from Beauty Survival - Goldwell Color Glow is available at Health and Beauty Depot.

Reese from Brooklyn, NY asks: I am Asian and have thick, long (4 inches passed shoulders) black hair. I have thermal reconditioning done to my hair once a year, not to straighten, but to flatten it (too much body). Now that I am getting older, I find that my hair is a little dull (lacks dimension). I've always envied highlights on blondes, but never attempted to get highlights myself for fear of the "red" tones that dark hair leaves when it is lightened. How do you achieve "golden" highlights on dark straight Asian hair? Is this at all possible? FYI, I colored my hair maybe twice in my life. Please advise.

Christopher Gamper - Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in NYC   (212-924-1127) answers: Asian hair is a challenge to color because of those underlying red and orange tones. This is true, but a golden color can be achieved. I like to work with multi dimensions usually, but because of the thermal reconditioning, it may be hard to highlight or color your hair. You have two options. You can get light golden brown highlights in which an "ash brown" is used to control unwanted red and orange tones, or you can have lighter stands bleached to to a dark gold and toned with a dark ash blonde toner, or both done as a multi dimensional highlight. But, first, get a consultation because of the existing thermal reconditioning. It might be a good idea to have it done at the same salon where you had the thermal reconditioning because they know what is going on with your hair.

Karen from Temple City, CA asks:  I bleached my hair about two weeks ago and I don't want the bleach in it anymore.  What do I do if I can't  dye it?  Is there anything specific, like shampoo, that will wash it out?

Christopher Gamper - Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in NYC   (212-924-1127) answers: You can not "get the bleach out."  You can have it toned down or dyed back to your natural color but you can "get it out". Anything like shampoos and conditioners containing color can end up turning it a even more horrifying color!!! Please be advised that this is considered a corrective color, do not try to do anything yourself.  Please go to a salon and they can give you the best advice on what your options are.

Shirley from Windsor, CT asks: I used to have full strawberry red hair which always looked great.   Now that I'm about fifty and I can't get my hair to curl.  I have my color and perm done by a professional.  A perm won't take and using a curling iron it won't curl.  Please help.

STANLEY - Stylist, Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in New York City  (212-924-1127) answers: Hair texture and color change all the time... going from straight to curly , curly to straight and of course from a color to grey. If you have had your hair permed and if didn't take (which is not uncommon for some hair), I suggest that you work with your "new" texture hair... get a hair cut that has layers so that there is some flow and doesn't just hang there. I'm not a big fan of perms and find that it really damages the hair shaft and can even kill hair follicles. I know it's not the answer you wanted but it's useless to fight your hair ... it will always win. Good luck....

Christine from Pittsburgh, PA asks: I have shoulder-length, curly hair and have been getting it colored dark brown with Framesi products at a local salon. I have a large amount of grey to cover. The roots are colored every 6 weeks and the color is only pulled through to the ends every 12 weeks. Especially after my last appointment, I noticed a lot of breakage (2" pieces). I examined it closer and although my hair is cut to one-length, it progressively thins from the roots to the ends as it has broken at different lengths along the shaft. What should I do? Should I find another colorist? If so, what questions should I ask? Is the percentage of peroxide too high? I don't use hot styling tools and when blow-drying use a diffuser, I always leave it quite damp.

Christopher Gamper - Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in NYC   (212-924-1127) answers: 

After reading your question and discussing it with my partner Stanley, I don't think that the problem is in your hair coloring.  Getting the re-growth done every 6 weeks and the ends run through every 12 is the least aggressive way to go. I think it is more a problem with the growth cycle of your hair. It is the progressive thinning from the re-growth area to the ends that leads me to that conclusion. Breakage usually happens 1/8 to 1 inch from the scalp and in patches. The progressive thinning you are actually seeing is new hair coming in to replace hair that was shed naturally. The problem is the new hair is not growing to maturity. That is why you are seeing different lengths through out.

Phara from Brooklyn, NY asks:  I have natural coarse, thick and wiry hair.  Can you tell me what chemical free products I can use to straighten it?

STANLEY - Stylist, Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in New York City  (212-924-1127) answers:   First, do you want to straighten your hair from blow dry to blow dry or do you want to straighten your hair on a more permanent basis? If it is for a permanent basis, there is no "chemical free straightener."  If you want something to help smooth out your hair from blow dry to blow dry, I use Silk Nectar made by Ecru.   If your hair is frizzy and dry... try using DevaCurl's No-Poo cleansing agent and their One Conditioner.  DevaCurl's products are great for keeping the hair hydrated.  Good luck.

P.S. from Beauty Survival:  DevaCurl products are available at CosmeticMall.com and Ecru's Silk Nectar is available from HeavenSpa.com.

Patricia from Stafford, CT asks:  I have white/gray hair at the front of my scalp and pepper and salt at the back. I wanted to try to have blond highlights and my hairdresser bleached the back of my hair and then added toner to try to create an ash tone. The problem is that the bleached dark hair is yellowish and I would like to reduce this 'brassiness'. How can I do this?

Christopher Gamper - Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in NYC   (212-924-1127) answers:  First off,  I am concerned with the end of the question when you ask "how can I do this."  Please do not take matters into your own hands!!!  Please go back to the colorist who did this to you or find another more competent one to correct it. The latter seems to be the better option. Now how to solve the problem, Let me first start with saying it is difficult to match artificial highlights to naturally grey ones. It sounds to me that the person who did the color did not lift the highlights to a light enough level for the ash toner to take properly. If there is too much gold or pale yellow left in the hair and the ash toner is on a lighter level than the highlights that were created the toner won't even show up. The gold or brassy highlights have to be toned with an ash toner that corresponds with the level that the highlights are on. However that may leave the highlights too dark and defeat the purpose all together. The way I would solve your problem is I would lift the highlights to a light enough level closest to the natural grey, say a very pale blonde, and then tone with a platinum toner to tie the highlights and the existing grey together.

Gee from New York, NY asks: I got highlights put in my hair which I love, but am now my hair is CONSIDERABLY lighter and I want to have my brows lightened. I can't find anywhere in NYC. I hear that it's "illegal" but I use to have it done and see other people with it everywhere!!

STANLEY - Stylist, Colorist and Co-Owner of Christopher Stanley Salon in New York City(212-924-1127) answers:   Upon investigation  as to the matter of coloring eyebrows it is against the law to color either eyelashes of eyebrows in the State of New York. Some salons will do it but many will not. But if you look at many of the "California Blondes", examples being Heather Locklear or Pamela Lee Anderson they have extremely light hair with very dark dark eyebrows.

Hair Removal

Luz from Arleta, CA asks:  I got my eyebrows waxed for the first time, but the next day my forehead was full of red bumps and pimples.  Is there anything I can do to so they will go away?  Also, will this keep happening every time I wax my eyebrows.

Shobha Tummala - Hair Removal Specialist and Owner of  New York City based Shobha Studios answers: We recommend putting cortisone gel on the bumps as soon as possible! This is what happens when your skin goes in to shock after having been removed with wax, which is a common occurrence in many people. Chances are you will continue to have this problem when you wax, as you may have sensitive skin, so we suggest you try threading or professional tweezing.

Jaquais form Auckland, NZ asks: What are the pros and cons of eyebrow threading and where in Auckland can I get them done?

Shobha Tummala - Hair Removal Specialist and Owner of  New York City based Shobha Studios answers: 

• The pros of threading: Precise - threading is the most precise way to remove hair. Technicians are able to take a line of hair out at a time which creates a more defined shape. Waxing can be messy and won't get all the fuzz around the brows. When tweezing one hair at a time, it is often hard to see the line you are trying to create.

• Dermatologist-approved - Threading does not harm your skin like waxing does. Wax can burn you, along with taking off layers of healthy skin when being removed. Threading is dermatologist-approved for those with sensitive skin and those on skin-thinning acne medications such as Accutane and Retin-A because the technique is non-invasive and does not irritate the skin. This also means that your skin will be red for a considerably less amount of time than with waxing, so if you have a date and you realize that your brows are creeping around your face, you don't have to worry about being red hours after your treatment. 

• The Cons:  What may seem to be a bargain may not turn out to be.  Make sure you do research into the threading salon you plan on visiting.  Not all threaders are alike and some technicians do not know how to shape  brows. They can leave you with mismatched, or even missing, brows. Also, thread can be sharp, and those technicians without proper training can sometimes go too quickly or apply too much pressure to your skin, which can lead to you getting cut.  Ask the folks at the salon if you can come and watch their technicians to see the technique they use, and whether they will give you a proper shape. Or you can simply ask for a consultation. If you feel comfortable with their expertise, then go ahead and give it a shot!

P.S. From Beauty Survival:  You can find salons in your area in our How To Find A Threading Salon section.

Nina from Dubai asks: I use a Philips epilator for removing hair from my legs and recently I've been getting a lot of ingrown hairs. Both the kind that are pimple-like and can be squeezed out and also the type that just curls or grows under the skin and can be seen but can't be reached. This has made my skin look very irritated and with many spots. I've started using an Australian product (Ingrow go) and also exfoliating. Please advise me on how else I can get rid of these and have a smooth skin and also prevent them from coming back.

Shobha Tummala - Hair Removal Specialist and Owner of  New York City based Shobha Studios answers: Aside from Tend Skin, which we all use religiously, try an exfoliant with glycolic or salicylic acid in it for a deeper exfoliation (just make sure you wait 48 hours after using the epilator!). Gylcolic acid helps to shed dead skin cell that can clog pores and hair follicles, a major cause of ingrown hairs. And salicylic acid is excellent for preventing the buildup of bacteria in pores, another cause of ingrowns. You should apply TendSkin on dry skin after you bathe; once at night for mild cases, or morning and night for those with more severe ingrowns. TendSkin should not be used at the same time as other products that contain acids, benzoyl peroxide, rubbing alcohol, or any topical acne products (i.e. Retin-A).

Nekesha from Birmingham, AL asks:  How can I get my eyebrows to grow back quicker and fuller?

Shobha Tummala - Hair Removal Specialist and Owner of  New York City based Shobha Studios answers: Let me clarify something. If you had full eyebrows and you have had a bad waxing or tweezing job, then maybe I can recommend something to make the hair grow back more quickly. But, if you have light eyebrows to start with, unfortunately I can't really help you.   ( I wish I could say to use this magic lotion and you will have hair growth wherever you want. If I had something like that, I would be a rich woman. I would be every thinning and balding person's dream.)  Some people recommend Rogaine or some version of that, but I am not a huge fan of that because that is not what it is really meant for.   But, if you are in the former camp, get some lavender or rosemary oil and massage it into your eyebrow areas before you go to sleep for a couple of weeks.  Obviously, these are not scientifically proven methods, but a lot of people swear by them. The massage will help stimulate circulation to that area and these two oils are known to help accelerate hair growth. We have seen some good progress for some of our clients. Good luck!

Gina from Brunswick, Maine asks:  I have had facial hair for as long as I can remember.  When I was 13, I started shaving my chin.  Now I'm 18 and I know that was wrong, but how do I stop?  I'm so afraid people will see me in the morning before I shave.  I can't imagine going a week without shaving and hiding somewhere so it could be waxed.  Please help me!  I don't want to shave my face for the rest of my life.

Shobha Tummala - Hair Removal Specialist and Owner of  New York City based Shobha Studios answers: Gina, I totally understand your dilemma.  What I would recommend is that you grow it out to get it waxed or threaded.  The benefit of threading is that even when it is a day old, it can be pulled out, but threading may be hard to find where you are.  The other option is to wait 2 days or however long you can go (a weekend) for it to grow out a bit and bleach it with Jolen bleach.  That way you can wait out the growing period necessary to get it waxed.  It won't feel as neat as when you shave it, but you just want to minimize people seeing the hair for the waiting period till you get it waxed.  Trust me, once you get it waxed, it will grow back finer and it will feel so much better.

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